FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

carpet strips tacked

rez | Posted in General Discussion on January 9, 2003 08:22am

What is the distance from the bottom room-facing edge of  the baseboard to where the wall edge of the carpet strips are tacked down. Medium range nylon carpet, baseboard 7/8 thick about 3/8s to 1/2 inch from floor sheathing, no quarter round. Will have standard foam backing pad.  Thanks.

Character? I never had any problem with character. Why, people’ve been telling me I was one every since I was a kid.

 

 


Edited 1/9/2003 12:24:41 PM ET by rez

Reply

Replies

  1. RW | Jan 10, 2003 02:25am | #1

    When I do it, if the base isn't on yet, it's the width of my thumb, if the base is on, it's the width of my little finger. Roughly 3/4" strong vs 3/8" strong. Haven't had any carpet installers come in behind me and gripe . . . yet.

    " The State, in choosing men to serve it, takes no notice of their opinions. If they be willing faithfully to serve it, that satisfies." - Oliver Cromwell

  2. User avater
    Qtrmeg | Jan 10, 2003 03:26am | #2

    What you have to watch out for is that the tackless is too close to the base, and results in a hump in the surface of the carpet at the base when you tuck it in. You can get a bit closer because your base is held up, but don't worry if you install the tackless a 64th or so too far away from the base.

    Unless you have a heavy carpet with a stiff back, go 33/64" or more. Watch around door casings, don't crowd them.

    1. rez | Jan 10, 2003 03:38am | #3

      Thanks guys. Homeboy's here first attempt at carpet laying and with homemade tools. Is it possible to clamp and stretch tight enough without a kicker? Does the foam underlayment get stapled down?

      and I thought I would only have to use the 64ths in my framing techniques. Gee we're turning into a complicated world.

      Character? I never had any problem with character. Why, people've been telling me I was one every since I was a kid.

       

       

      Edited 1/9/2003 7:39:48 PM ET by rez

      1. andybuildz | Jan 10, 2003 06:42am | #4

        rez

             Don't tell the head honchos at HD but I  had one room to lay carpet in a house ago so I bought the kicker from HD...used it and returned it.

        Be bad

               Namaste

                          Andy"Attachment is the strongest block to realization"http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

        1. CAGIV | Jan 10, 2003 11:46am | #5

          Andy,

            you know you can rent the damn thing for practically nothing lol?

          1. andybuildz | Jan 10, 2003 04:57pm | #6

            Cag

               Around here its fourty five dollars to rent. All I needed it for was an hour and a half.

            a"Attachment is the strongest block to realization"http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

      2. User avater
        Qtrmeg | Jan 10, 2003 05:29pm | #7

        Roarez>>>"Is it possible to clamp and stretch tight enough without a kicker?"

        Depends, but I doubt it. The question is usually "Can I get the carpet tight enough by kicking it in without a stretcher". If you don't want to rent a kicker, (like $10), make one, and make sure the carpet is warm when you install.

        R>>> "Does the foam underlayment get stapled down?"

        Yes, unless over a slab, then it is glued.

        And no, I don't really know anything about carpet. I just would rather watch people work than actually work myself, so I tend to pick up info.

        1. john31136 | Jan 10, 2003 07:00pm | #8

          The correct way is to use a strecher, not a knee kicker or your feet.  Many people will use a knee kicker and the carpet will lose the small amount of strech obtained in a hurry.  Rent a strecher for about 25.00 and do the job once.  Are you seaming the carpet anywhere?

  3. User avater
    JeffBuck | Jan 11, 2003 02:12am | #9

    Set the tackless a fingertip away from the wall. That's the scientific method I was taught when cleaning and repairing.  Ya need room for the tuck.

    And No...you can't stretch it tight enough without the power stretcher. Knee kicks are for tight quarters where the power can't fit......but I also learned that the power stretcher can fit just about anywhere. Just be sure to brace the back end with a 2x if the walls are weak.

    Yes....I have seen walls crushed and moved with the power stretcher.

    After you rent the power stretch  do a little experiment......knee kick a small room first.....get it as tight as ya can.......then before you cut......break out the power stretcher....I bet you get a min 2 to 3 inches more out of it.....depending on the carpet and size of the room.......up to 6 or so inches wouldn't suprise me.

    A non stretched carpet will never get fully cleaned. The ply's need to stand at attention for the vac to work. The carpet will also rub back and forth with each step.....and you won't notice till your carpet that shoulda lasted 15 yrs is shot in 5.

    But here's the big question.....why U doing it?

    I did my 2 small bedrooms up stairs with high quality remnants myself.......

    But I refused to carpet the entire downstairs. I've grown a strong hatred toward installing carpets...and the price is install is enough for me to say that's one job I'll sub out!

    Have fun with the bloody knuckles! And carrying the damn roll in....and the heating iron....that smell.....yech.

    Jeff

    Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

     Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite                  

    1. rez | Jan 11, 2003 04:17am | #10

      Well, I've had a small change in venue. The room I planned to carpet is one office/bedroom about 26x15 upstairs with a central chimney. Had multiple rolls for downstairs also. Then decided wood floors and area rugs downstairs was the way to go after learning about dust mites and the like. So I gave the bulk of the rolls away to a family member and now discover I didn't keep enough to cover the whole floor. I tried to roar but couldn't bring one up.

      Now a great debate on the office half of the room. When ending a carpet up against the beginning of a similar thickness wood floor is there some kind of joiner strip at the intersection or do you just tack the carpet edge tight and begin the wood floor? Thanks you all.Character? I never had any problem with character. Why, people've been telling me I was one every since I was a kid.

       

       

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Jan 11, 2003 07:41am | #11

        Yeah..there's a gripper type edging. Not sure what the real name is. It's metal.....you cut and fold under...so it tucks underneath..then beat it closed with a mallet.

        The carpet if folded over it to make a nice clean edge. Or..there are metal threshold type's that clamp shut and leave the metal exposed. That kind is easier to find..but more for when carpet lays over a hardwood floor or something similar.

        Make sure you chack a real carpet supply store.

        Let them know what your situation is..they'll know how to handle it. These types of edges are easy to screw up.........that's why I let the guys that do it every day figure it out.

        But...not too hard to figure out by yourself if ya like.

        JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

         Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite                  

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Making the Move to Multifamily

A high-performance single-family home builder shares tips from his early experience with two apartment buildings.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • A Classic Paint Sprayer Gets a Thoughtful Refresh
  • Podcast Episode 692: Introduction to Trade Work, Embodied Carbon, and Envelope Improvements
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Embodied Greenhouse Gas Emissions and the Building Codes
  • Old Boots Learn New Tricks

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

OSZAR »